Hidenori Kumakiri | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week TOKYO


INTERVIEW&REPORT
detail

HIDENORI KUMAKIRI

beautiful people

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Born in Atsugi, Kanagawa Prefecture. After graduating from the Apparel Design Technique Course at the Fashion Technology Department of Bunka Fashion College in 1996, he worked as a patterner at Comme des Garçons Homme. In 2004, he founded entertainment Ltd., an outsourcing pattern company. In the spring/summer of 2007, he launched the original brand “beautiful people.”

beautiful people is a brand popular for its smart, Tokyo-like style. The line-up of items tickle your inner fashion spirit regardless of age or taste—whether you're an adult or child, a fashionista or prefer the traditional/casual look. It is indeed a fashion democracy. We interviewed designer Hidenori Kumakiri, whose creations will be showcased on the first day of Japan Fashion Week.

beautiful people 熊切秀典

What made you decide to become a designer?

Kumakiri:My parents were in the knitting business. My mom is a knitting teacher, so I grew up surrounded by fashion, but I wasn't too interested in working in fashion at that time. I applied to college, failed my entrance exams the first year, and the day after the entrance exams the next year, I was thinking that I’d probably failed again, when my mother brought me an application brochure for Bunka (Fashion College). She probably thought that I'd fail too. Entering Bunka College on the recommendation of my parents led me to become involved in fashion.

After graduating, you worked as a patterner for a popular brand, then founded your own company and launched the brand "beautiful people".

Kumakiri:When I launched the brand, I was hoping to create a new attitude or new values that didn't exist yet. This may seem over-the-top, but I hoped that I could improve society. When I say “new,” I mean something that no one noticed before, rather than something that did not exist.

Where did the name of your brand "beautiful people" come from?

Kumakiri:The name just came to me. When I looked up the term “beautiful people” later, I found that it also means “celebrities” or “people that make fashion,” which made me like the name even more. I thought that it would be fun and interesting to have a brand name that means “celebrity,” even though we the designers are ordinary people.

If you were to sum up your creations in one sentence?

beautiful people 熊切秀典

Kumakiri:I create my clothes hoping that they provide a new stimulating experience for people. For instance, for our kids’ line, which we’ve been producing ever since our debut, we create adult clothes in children’s sizes. They look so small that no one would believe that the clothes would fit, but the pattern techniques actually allow them to fit. At the beginning, the clothes were really small. The current sample size for the kids’ line is 140cm, so it looks somehow wearable, but the sample sizes at the time of our debut were all 120cm. These were sizes for six to seven year olds, so people were surprised. We value this sense of humor and surprise.

What was your debut collection like?

Kumakiri:We made military items using 100% silk chiffon fabric, made what people call "vintage denim" with the details all replaced by embroidery… we did many different things, but they all lead to what we’re doing now. We brought together haute-couture embroidery with the definitive casual material of denim; military and silk chiffon; adult and children's styles—we did things following our concept of bringing together things at opposite extremes.

What is the source of your inspiration?

Kumakiri:Daily life. Recently, I tweet about things that I come up with in my daily life. (→ @h_kumakiri). I’ve come up with quite a lot of material to work with! (Laughs) I’m not the type to look at magazines, books, or past material for inspiration. I suddenly come up with things in the course of my daily life. Take the T-shirt that plays with the typography of the "KOOL" cigarettes, for example. If you wear a jacket on top of the T-shirt and the two sides are hidden, the overlapping "OO" at the center looks like the logo of a certain famous brand. This was something that came to me when I looked at a cigarette vending machine while just walking around. I am conscious of the fact that this is a brand made by a person living in Tokyo. Although the range of my activities is narrow; limited to Tokyo Tower, Roppongi Hills and Meiji Dori…

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