Designer for A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT
After working as a freelance costume designer, Yu moved to New York alone in 2004. He won the grand prize for two consecutive years in the Gen Art International Design Competition - the largest fashion contest in the U.S. that has produced many designers such as Zac Posen and Philip Lim - and received recognition for his high quality creations and novel designs from buyers and famous designers worldwide. Yu came back to Japan in 2009 after being chosen for the Shinmai Creator's Project sponsored by JFWO, and made his debut in the 2010 A/W Tokyo Collection. He established 212 Co., Ltd., which designs both men's and women's apparel.
Yasutoshi Ezumi - left
Designer for Yasutoshi Ezumi
Yasutoshi studied fashion and textiles at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. He gained experience at fashion houses such as Alexander McQueen, and was the knitwear designer for Aquascutum for their 2008 S/S and A/W Collections. After returning to Japan, Yasutoshi worked as a fashion/textile designer and art director, and launched his fashion brand, Yasutoshi Ezumi, in 2010 A/W. He was chosen for the 2011 Shinmai Creator's Project sponsored by JFWO, and began participating in the Tokyo Collection from 2011 A/W.
I would like to ask more about the joint fashion show that was held last October.
Why did you decide to do it together?
Yasutoshi: When I went to see the venue for the collection with Yu, we kind of decided to do it together without either of us really taking initiative. Our workshops are right next to each other, so it's easy to keep in close touch, and also our brands showcase different tastes, we feel that both brands are at around the same stage. We thought that if we could get these two brands to do a show together, it would attract attention and there could even be some synergy effect. In the preparation stage, Yu, A DEGREE staff and I communicated and worked together.
Yu: I'm really thankful for Yasutoshi's group for taking the lead, especially in running the show.
Yasutoshi: We had some meetings but most of it was on logistics. We saw glimpses of each other's samples, but we didn't meddle in each other's business in that respect, to the extent that we didn't know each other's theme for the collections. But since our strengths are different, mine being knits and his being fabrics and patterns, we were able to learn from each other in such technical areas.
Yu: For example, the production process for knits is very unique, and in many cases, it is difficult to communicate with the factories unless you have expertise. One of the good things about doing a joint show was to be able to help each other out in such cases. Of course, we are also rivals, but I think we have a good balance in our relationship.
Yasutoshi: It is good that we have different strengths. We hardly talk about design, but we often exchange information on brand management and technical aspects. He is a good person to consult and we both inspire each other.
A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT 2012 S/S
Yasutoshi Ezumi 2012 S/S
Do you have any thoughts on the current fashion scene in Japan?
Yasutoshi: The fashion scene in Japan is very unique and cannot be seen anywhere else. First of all, there is a very large number of consumers, so I feel like the market is always changing dynamically. Currently, there is also a strong trend in Japan for fast fashion, but I don't think this will last forever. These trends tend to go through cycles depending on the economy. I think it is important to not be led astray by them, but to gradually build up a brand image, express it and establish a style.
Yu: Previously in Japan, there was a unique situation where the general public read collection magazines, but there is much less of that now. On top of that, with the popularity of fast fashion, domestic brands are not standing out as much anymore. That is just sad. There is even a general impression that being fashionable is a little embarrassing. "Being a little different" is popular because everyone is watching what other people are doing, but I would like to go against that and propose designs that are sexier and showier.
On the other hand, how do you feel about other countries?
Yasutoshi: I would like to expand overseas after spending about three years establishing a foundation in Japan. Currently, we are coming to a stage where we are looking at Asia and need to coordinate with them, and I think Japan needs to take the lead and hold large exhibitions and fashion shows in various cities in Asia.
Yu: Ideally, I would like to have an office in both Japan and New York. But first, I would like to establish a base. Japan has high quality manufacturing for materials and sewing, so I think it would be best to establish a strong foundation and take those good things abroad.
Yasutoshi: I feel the same way. In London's case, there are not many factories domestically, so we had to order from factories overseas, such as those in Italy, Turkey and Hong Kong, which makes it difficult to communicate with them. Factories in Japan are currently in a difficult situation, but they still give their best and make good products. I would like to establish good relationships with such places and grow together.
Lastly, do you have any ideas for the next collection?
Yasutoshi: We are planning to do the next one separately. Our brand concept is &kotowari (logic)&, and we always start off from thinking about &physics& and &rationality&. The theme for the next collection will also be related to that, but we plan to express our worldview in a more condensed way than ever before. We are working on planning the presentation so that it will be &a fashion show that you can physically experience&.
Yu: I heard some of those ideas from him, and it sounds like it's going to be pretty interesting. I can't give out a lot of details yet, but my theme is always &temperature&, and I plan to have that as the center of my next collection too.
